Mirleft

Two hours south of Agadir, past the point where most surf traffic stops, Mirleft is a small town on a coast of cliffs and hidden coves. It has a scattering of surf spots, very few surfers and a distinctly different feel from the north.

The beaches sit below cliffs and are reached by tracks, which keeps numbers low. Imin Tourga, Aftas and the beaches around Legzira are the names to know — Legzira for its collapsed sandstone arches, still spectacular even after one of them fell.

The town has grown a small, easygoing traveller scene without becoming a resort. Prices are lower and the pace is slower than anywhere north.

There is no surf industry to speak of, which is the point and also the catch: board hire and lessons exist but are thin on the ground, so most people arrive with a board or pick one up in Agadir or Tiznit on the way through. A car changes the trip completely — the coast road down to Sidi Ifni strings together a series of beaches that are effectively empty on a weekday, and without wheels you will surf whichever one you can walk to.

Where to stay in Mirleft

Small family-run guesthouses in town and a few places out on the cliffs, roughly €20 to €45 for a double. A handful of surf houses run full weeks with lessons and transport, which is the practical way to do it here given how far apart the beaches are.

Good to know

You need transport. The beaches sit below the road down rough tracks and walking between them is not realistic. Board hire exists but the choice is thin, so bring your own if you are particular about what you ride. There are ATMs in town, but do not plan a week around a single one working.